06/04/2026
Leeks
Did you ever look at a leek and think that's just a giant green onion? But really, that's like saying a moose is a giant deer. To put it another way, a green onion says hello, I'm an onion while a leek says I'd like to gently suggest an onion flavor. If you put green onions into a potato soup, you notice the green onion flavour, but if you put leeks in a potato soup, they disappear and become part of the soup itself.
Leeks are ancient. They go back to the very first peoples.. ancient mesopotamians, ancient egyptians, they all ate leeks. For early farmers, leeks were important . They were easy to grow, they tolerated cold weather, they survived rough conditions, and they stored reasonably well. But most importantly, they added flavor to food.
But when the Romans came along, things really went weird. The emperor Nero ate a lot of leeks. He thought that they improved his singing voice. He ate so many leaks that people joked about it. Think about that for a minute. One of the most powerful men on Earth thought that a vegetable would make him sing better.
But it does get even weirder than that. In a famous battle where the Welsh were preparing to fight the Saxons, Saint David apparently instructed soldiers to put leeks on their helmets. You see, back then they weren't neat uniforms. All the equipment was basically handmade. And so it was hard to tell one side from another. The idea of putting a leek on the helmet would actually help identify friend or foe in the midst of a battle. It does, however, seem like something out of a Monty Python scene. “Right! Now everyone grab a vegetable!” The story itself is part history, part legend or a mix or both. However, it became so powerful that it eventually turned into a national Welsh symbol.
Now for the science. Leeks and onions are relatives, but they are not the same. Leeks were selected over time. They weren't bred for a big bulb. They were bred for that long white stalk. It's important to know though that the white part isn't naturally white. Farmers mound soil around the stems to block the sunlight. Without sunlight, it creates a pale tender stem. That means that dirt is literally a part of leek history. Dirt, yes, dirt is also tied to leeks because they hide dirt like professionals. When the leaves wrap tightly around each other, soil gets trapped between the layers. That means that you need to wash them thoroughly. An older cook would say, “wash the leeks, then wash them again.” If you ever bit into leeks that had grit in them, you would remember it forever.
Leeks fit in Atlantic kitchens naturally even though they aren't a stereotypical Maritime ingredient because they tolerate our climate, they fit very well in a kitchen garden, and tolerate cold weather better than most vegetables. Most importantly though, they pair perfectly with potatoes, fish and chowders.
Leeks were worn into battle, eaten by Roman emperors, and trusted to improve singing voices, yet today I bet most of you walk past them to get to the celery.
Creamy Braised Leeks with Thyme & Sharp Cheddar
Ingredients:
6-8 large leeks (yeah, that's a lot)
3 tbsp butter
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 tsp thyme
½ tsp black pepper
½ tsp salt
Pinch nutmeg
¾ cup heavy cream
1 cup sharp cheddar, shredded
¼ cup Parmesan
½ cup breadcrumbs
1 tbsp melted butter
Clean the leeks well. Remember that leeks hide dirt between their layers. Trim off the roots and the dark green tops. Slice lengthwise. Rinse each layer thoroughly again. You need to get rid of the grit. Now cut them into 1 inch pieces.
Melt butter in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the leeks, garlic, thyme, pepper, salt, and nutmeg. Cook for 15 to 20 minutes, stirring occasionally. Don't rush this. They should become soft and almost jam-like. It's like caramelizing an onion.
When the leeks are ready, stir in the cream. Transfer to a baking dish and top with cheddar and Parmesan. Mix the breadcrumbs with melted butter and sprinkle over top. Bake at 400°F for 20 to 25 minutes, until bubbling and golden.
You may expect this to taste like a strong onion, but instead it's sweet, buttery, mild, almost celery like. It's rich without being heavy. Perhaps the best way to serve this would be with baked haddock, or maybe even roast chicken.
Old-Fashioned Kitchen Thought: Leeks spent centuries flavoring everyone else's food. This recipe finally lets them have the spotlight.