09/23/2026
LAST-SECOND EXCURSION TO SEE MORE DOLLS (I JUST COULD NOT HELP MYSELF! )
With my flight leaving in the early afternoon, I was loath to wait six hours in the hotel, so I used up the last of my rail pass and hopped a train to Shizuoka. My destination was Joshoin Temple outside of Yaizu.
Like Shinzenkoji in Kitami, Hokkaido, and Zenkoji in Mino, Gifu this temple houses a large number (223) of dolls, dedicated to the youth in that area.
Like the Eirei-ningyo of Zenkoji, Joshoin’s dolls honor those local youths who died during the Russo-Japanese War (1904-1905) and were created during the late Meiji era (1868-1912).
My knowledge of the other two temples stemmed almost exclusively from the wonderful research done by Senda Yasuko-san, a phenomenal Karakuri-ningyo researcher in Nagoya. She never mentioned this third temple, and thus the information I have is what is readily available on the Internet.
But one thing is abundantly clear, that, even though these dolls are superficially similar in terms of their posture and attire, the artistry employed and the rendering of their faces is far inferior to that of the other two temples. Although, technically, they are designed to represent a specific youth, with a small name plaque placed lovingly in front of each doll, there is precious little variety in the facial features themselves, aside from facial hair and a few other small detail details.
And yet, coming into this beautifully cared for temple, with three interconnecting rooms lined with these dolls, it is impossible, not to feel a solemnness and respect for the departed.
Each doll measures about 53 cm (21”) and is set a top a square lacquered wood base that reads : Go Koku Son Rei (honored spirit protecting our country)
There are a number of different military style outfits, some naval some army. And all the faces except for one are covered in a lightly pigmented material that I’m assuming is gofun, but I’m not sure. one face is hauntingly white.
Unlike Zenkoji, it is clearly a well-supported and active temple, and they even have a plushy doll depicting one of these soldiers… no one was there, so I was unable to ask if they actually sold them or whether it was a one off. 
While these dolls may not have the artistic merit of some of Japan’s more famous doll styles, I think the presence of these three temples, utilizing dolls is a way to commemorate and honor specific individuals, speaks to the unique role that dolls play within Japanese culture.
I am reminded of the Hanayome- ningyo (bride dolls), which are posthumously “married” to soldiers in WWII who had died in combat unmarried. So much to unpack!
I need more time to research this, particularly, I need to interview the temple priests to see what their specific take is on the position of these dolls within the Buddhist cosmology and in Japanese culture in general. 
More ningyo fun to come!!
Headed home!