22/11/2025
Today's guest post is from Alison Rendall Fair Isle Knitting, a designer and tutor of Fair Isle knitting, as well as the author of a recently published book, Fair Isle Knitting Tradition, which can be found on Alison's website, at many local yarn stores, or through online book retailers. Alison shared her thoughts about what makes something Fair Isle:
All too often we see misrepresentations of Fair Isle knitting. To call a garment Fair Isle-inspired is one thing, but to say that it is truly Fair Isle, to my mind, it must be made within the constraints of the tradition. Therefore, it is vital to get the clarification on the definition of “What makes something Fair Isle”. Why be so pedantic? Firstly, Fair Isle knitting was borne out of poverty, hard work and necessity. Knitters of the past who laid the foundations of what we now call Fair Isle, were exploited by merchants and lairds. They were paid in goods, often receiving very little for their exceptional work. Secondly, each piece represents the knitter’s individual artistry and creativity, not to mention the countless hours that was spent designing, creating and finishing each garment. It is, therefore, our job, as Shetlanders, to protect and develop what our forebears began and worked so hard for. It is betrayal of their hardship and memory to allow the art of Fair Isle knitting to be diluted, belittled or misrepresented.
Naturally, there is variation within Shetland on the true definition of how to knit Fair Isle. These differences may be regional as different parts of Shetland adopted different knitting styles. Additionally, these differences could be due to different techniques being passed on and taught within individual families. However, there are certain techniques that almost all Shetland makkers do whilst creating a Fair Isle piece. The following points are just some of the elements that I would consider
fundamental to Fair Isle knitting.
Knitting in the round
Hand knitted Fair Isle is made in the round. It is not made in flat pieces and sewn together afterwards. This means that for the most part you are working on the outside of your design where you can see motif development. Your finished item is
seamless with the design and motifs fitting in the round.
Fine gauge
Fair Isle is best shown off when knitted in fine wool and on fine needles (2ply jumper weight/4ply fi*****ng and needles ranging between 2.75 – 3.5mm). Knitting this way results in pieces with a close gauge and motifs being well defined and striking. Upon the dressing of your garment, stitch definition disappears and your product is almost fabric-like. These results cannot be achieved when knitting with chunky needles or yarn.
Shetland wool
The best results in Fair Isle knitting are achieved using 100% Shetland wool. Shetland wool has sticky qualities allowing the knitter to steek and cut their knitting without worrying about destroying their work. It is difficult to create a traditional and attractive piece of Fair Isle knitting in a smooth or more slippery yarn.
Furthermore, it is now necessary to protect the humble yet hardy native Shetland sheep. We indeed must honour this breed and the crofters who look after the Shetland flocks, for producing some of the finest wool in the world.
Symmetry
Traditional Shetland knitting has elements of symmetry. If an imaginary line were drawn down the centre front there would be symmetry to either side of that line. As well as this each motif is knitted up to the middle row, and the second half is knitted as a mirror image of the first half.
Colour
Shetlanders all experiment with colour placement. There are usually several colours in each piece, but they are arranged in a blended and subtle way that is pleasing to the eye. The bold-stripe look of clashing colours without coordination is avoided. Shetland yarn producers allow for this as they produce a large selection of harmonious colours allowing the knitter to essentially paint with wool.
I’d just like to reiterate that these are my own thoughts and views on the subject. If folk want to get involved and more informed, they should ask any knitter in the Shetland community, read Shetland books or if possible, visit our museums. I do hope that posts like these provide clarity on and promote the preservation of Fair Isle knitting traditions within our Isles.
Image Credit: Kev Theakston
