22/09/2022
My nomination for best vegan restaurant in Toulouse, Gloomy.
Etzlenu is a home-dining experience in the heart of Tel Aviv, focusing on contemporary spins on classic Southern (US) cuisine. Reservations: 972.54.236.0781
Sderot Chen 51/4
Tel Aviv
| Monday | 08:00 - 20:00 |
| Tuesday | 08:00 - 20:00 |
| Wednesday | 08:00 - 20:00 |
| Thursday | 08:00 - 20:00 |
| Friday | 08:00 - 20:00 |
| Saturday | 08:00 - 15:00 |
| Sunday | 08:00 - 20:00 |
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This will sound stupid: I grew up with food (like, who didn’t, right?). But my family owned a grocery business in Savannah, Georgia and that is where I was much of my growing up years. At aged 5, I “helped” Dad with annual inventory counting, after which I raced a grocery buggy up and down the recently waxed floors until I came crashing into a tower of eggs on the dairy aisle. I hauled turkeys bigger than I was, so it seemed, during Thanksgivings. Worked in the produce warehouse starting at 4 am. Became a journeyman meatcutter before I was 16. And so on.
One of our favorite rituals was going out to a late breakfast on Sunday mornings at a place, I kid you not, called “Our House.” My dad would ask, “Where do you want to go for breakfast?” I would reply “Our House.” Dad: “So you want to eat at home today.” “Dad, c’mon, no, I want to eat at “Our House.” And so on. Today that local eatery on Victory and Skidaway is now, like the rest of the world, a Starbucks. Still, Savannah had, even then, some kick-ass places to eat: Williams Seafood, Anna’s Little Napoli, Desposito’s, Mrs. Wilke’s. Today, like many places in the South, Savannah puts out some amazing regional food. Hats off to influences such as Frank Stitt, Ashley Christensen, Callie Moore, Mashawma Bailey, Hugh Acheson, and Edouardo Jordan, among many others.
My mom was one of those cooks who loved to improvise in the kitchen, without really having learned the basics upon which improvisation is based. And she was a health food nut from way back. Little butter, no salt, etc. Meals were terrible. And so I learned how to cook. Hungarian gulash, adopted from summer camp. Bought my first omelette pan as a teen. Then another for meat dishes. I took my meager equipment off to college and continued cooking in the dorms. Worked on a sweet potato farm close to my granparents’ home in Americus and came home evenings and made sweet potato pies, pecan pies. Put away money for grad school waiting on tables and cooking in restaurants around DC.