03/06/2026
Have you heard of Laon?
I hadn't either. A friend mentioned it almost in passing after visiting family in France. That is exactly what makes it special — it flies completely under the radar, and it completely delivers.
About 3.5 hours from Rotterdam, Laon is a medieval hilltop city in northern France that feels like it was lifted from a storybook. The entire old town sits on top of a dramatic ridge, enclosed by 7 kilometres of ramparts and anchored by one of the earliest Gothic cathedrals in France. Built in the 12th and 13th centuries, it predates Notre-Dame. For a city this size, the density of history is remarkable with over 80 listed monuments, and the status of City of Art and History to go with it.
As an architect, I had to stop every few steps. Our daughter was more interested in the pastries, and if you know me, you know we found a compromise. 🥐
It is the kind of place where history is impossible to ignore but so enchanting that an 8 year old can genuinely enjoy it.
We stayed the night at . Historic house, creaking floors, marble fireplaces, and Pierre who made us feel immediately at home. Warm, easy, and wonderful with kids.
Next stop in this series: Reims. Follow along if you'd like.